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Recovering from a fire may take a long time and many
of the things you have to do will be new to you.
If you are not insured, your recovery from a fire loss
most likely will be dependent upon your own resources. Private
organizations that can help include the American Red
Cross and the Salvation Army. You also could talk with
your church or synagogue. Local civic groups such as
the Lions or Rotary Clubs also can be of help.
Insurance Information
Assessing Your Property
Adjusting the
Loss
Replacement of Valuable
Documents/Records
Salvage Hints
If you are insured, your insurance will be the most
important single component in recovering from a fire
loss. A number of coverages are available such as - homeowner's,
tenant's or condominium owner's insurance policies.
Your insurance policy is a contract between you and
the insurer. The insurer promises to do certain things
for you. In turn, you have certain obligations. Among
your duties after a fire loss would be to give immediate
notice of the loss to the insurance company or the insurer's
agent.
Protect the property from further damage by making sensible
or necessary repairs such as covering holes in the roof
or walls. Take reasonable precautions against loss, such
as draining water lines in winter if the house will be
unheated for some time. The insurance company may refuse
to pay losses that occur from not taking such reasonable
care.
Make an inventory of damaged personal property showing
in detail the quantity, description, original purchase
price, purchase date, damage estimate and replacement
cost.
Cooperate with the insurer or his/her adjuster by exhibiting
the damaged property.
Submit, within a stated time period (usually 30 - 60
days), a formal statement of loss. Such a statement should
include:
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The time and cause of loss
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The names and addresses of those who have an interest
in the property. These might include the mortgage holder,
a separated or divorced spouse or a lien holder.
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Building plans and specifications of the original
home and a detailed estimate for repairs.
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The damage inventory mentioned above.
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Receipts for additional living expenses and loss
of use claims.
A pre-fire inventory along with a videotape of all your
property could prove to be a valuable record when making
your claim.
When adjusting your fire loss or in claiming a casualty
loss on your Federal income tax, you will have to deal
with various viewpoints on the value of your property.
Some terms used are listed below:
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Your "personal value" is your attachment
to and personal value of your property lost in a fire.
Personal items have a certain sentimental value. This
term is not meant to belittle their value to you but
is used to separate feelings about the value from objective
measures of value. It will be objective measures of
value which you, the insurer, and the Internal Revenue
Service will use as a common ground.
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The "cost when purchased" is an important
element in establishing an item's final value. Receipts
will help verify the cost price.
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Fair market value before the fire also is expressed
as "actual cash value." This is what you
could have gotten for the item if you had sold it the
day before the fire. Its price would reflect its cost
at purchase and the wear it had sustained since then.
Depreciation is the formal term to express the amount
of value an item loses over a period of time.
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"Value after the fire" is sometimes called
the item's "salvage value."
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The cost to replace the item with a like, but not
necessarily identical, item is the replacement cost.
"Loss adjustment" is the process of establishing
the value of the damaged property. This is the result
of a joint effort among a number of parties. Basic parties
to the process are the owner or occupant and the insurance
company and its representatives.
The owner or occupant is required by the insurance contract
to prepare an inventory and cooperate in the loss valuation
process. An insurance agent may act as the adjuster if
the loss is small. The insurer may send an adjuster who
is a permanent member of the insurer's staff, or the
company may hire an independent adjuster to act in its
behalf. It is the insurance adjuster's job, as a representative
of the insurance company, to monitor and assist in the
loss valuation process and to bring the loss to a just
and equitable settlement.
Either you or the insurer may hire the services of a
fire damage restoration firm or fire damage service company.
These firms provide a range of services that may include
some or all of the following:
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Securing the site against further damage
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Estimating structural damage
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Repairing structural damage
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Estimating the cost to repair or renew items of personal
property
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Packing, transportation, and storage of household
items
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Securing appropriate cleaning or repair subcontractors
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Storing repaired items until needed
It is important to coordinate with the insurance adjuster
before contracting for any services. If you invade the
insurer's responsibility area by contracting without
its knowledge or consent, you may be left with bills
to pay that otherwise would have been covered by the
insurer.
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Replacement of Valuable
Documents and Records
Driver's license |
Local department of motor vehicles |
Bank books |
Your bank, as soon as possible |
Insurance policies |
Your insurance agent |
Military discharge papers |
Local Veterans Administration |
Passports |
Local passport office |
Birth, death, marriage |
State Bureau of Records in the state certificates
of birth, death or marriage |
Divorce papers |
Circuit Court where decree was issued |
Social Security or Medicare cards |
Local Social Security Office |
Credit Cards |
The issuing companies, as soon as possible |
Titles to deeds |
Records department of city or county in which
the property is located |
Stocks and bonds |
Issuing company or your broker |
Wills |
Your lawyer |
Medical records |
Your doctor |
Warranties |
Issuing company |
Income tax records |
The Internal Revenue Service Center where
filed or your accountant |
Auto registration title |
Department of Motor Vehicles |
Citizenship papers |
The U.S. Immigration and Naturalization Service |
Prepaid burial contracts |
Issuing company |
Animal registration papers |
Society of registry |
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4-6 tbsp. of Tri-Sodium Phosphate
l cup Lysol or any household chlorine bleach
l gallon warm water
Mix well, add clothes, rinse with clear water and dry
well.
Be aware that Tri-Sodium Phosphate is a caustic substance
used as a cleaning agent. It should be used with care
and stored out of reach of children and pets. Wear rubber
gloves when using it. Read the label carefully. To remove
mildew, wash the fresh stain with soap and warm water.
Then rinse and dry in sun. If the stain has not disappeared,
use lemon juice and salt, or a diluted solution of household
chlorine bleach.
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Cooking Utensils - Your pots, pans,
flatware, etc., should be washed with soapy water,
rinsed and then polished with a fine-powdered cleaner.
You can polish copper and brass with special polish,
salt sprinkled on a piece of lemon or salt sprinkled
on a cloth saturated with vinegar.
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Electrical Appliances - Appliances
that have been exposed to water or steam should not
be used until you have a service representative check
them. This is especially true of electrical appliances.
In addition, steam can remove the lubricant from some
moving parts. If the fire department turned off your
gas or power during the fire, call the electric or
gas company to restore these services - DO NOT TRY
TO DO IT YOURSELF.
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Food - Wash your canned goods in
detergent and water. Do the same for food in jars.
If labels come off, be sure you mark the contents on
the can or jar with a grease pencil. Do not use canned
goods when cans have bulged or are dented or rusted.
If your home freezer has stopped running, you still
can save the frozen food. Keep the freezer closed. Your
freezer has enough insulation to keep food frozen for
at least one day - perhaps for as many as two or three
days. Move your food to a neighbor's freezer or a rented
locker. Wrap the frozen food in newspapers and blankets
or use insulated boxes. Do not re-freeze food that has
thawed.
To remove odor from your refrigerator or freezer, wash
the inside with a solution of baking soda and water,
or use one cup of vinegar or household ammonia to one
gallon of water. Some baking soda in an open container,
or a piece of charcoal can be placed in the refrigerator
or freezer to absorb odor.
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Flooring and Rugs - When water
gets underneath linoleum, it can cause odors and warp
the wood floor. If this happens, remove the entire
sheet. If the linoleum is brittle, a heat lamp will
soften it so it can be rolled up without breaking.
If carefully removed, it can be re-cemented after the
floor has completely dried. Small blisters in linoleum
can be punctured with a nail and re-cemented if you
are careful. Dilute regular linoleum paste thin enough
to go through a hand syringe and shoot adhesive through
the nail hole. Weigh down the linoleum with bricks
or boards. It usually is possible to cement loose tiles
of any type. Wait until the floor is completely dry
before beginning.
Rugs and carpets also should be allowed to dry thoroughly.
Throw rugs then can be cleaned by beating, sweeping or
vacuuming, and then shampooing. Rugs should be dried
as quickly as possible. Lay them flat, and expose them
to a circulation of warm, dry air. A fan turned on the
rugs will speed drying. Make sure the rugs are thoroughly
dry. Even though the surface seems dry, moisture remaining
at the base of the tufts can quickly rot a rug. For information
on cleaning and preserving carpets, call your carpet
dealer or installer or qualified carpet cleaning professional.
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Mattresses and Pillows - Reconditioning
an innerspring mattress at home is very difficult,
if not impossible. Your mattress may be able to be
renovated by a company that builds or repairs mattresses.
If you must use your mattress temporarily, put it out
into the sun to dry. Then cover it with rubber or plastic
sheeting. It is almost impossible to get smoke odor
out of pillows. The feathers and foam retain the odor.
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Leather and Books - Wipe leather
goods with a damp cloth, then a dry cloth. Stuff purses
and shoes with newspapers to retain shape. Leave suitcases
open. Leather goods should be dried away from heat
and sun. When leather goods are dry, clean with saddle
soap. You can use steel wool or a suede brush on suede.
Rinse leather and suede jackets in cold weather and
dry away from heat and sun.
Wet books must be taken care of as soon as possible.
The best methods to save wet books is to freeze them
in a vacuum freezer. This special freezer will remove
the moisture without damaging the pages.
If there will be a delay in locating such a freezer,
place them in a normal freezer until a vacuum freezer
can be located.
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Locks and Hinges - Locks (especially
iron locks) should be taken apart, wiped with kerosene
and oiled. If locks cannot be removed, squirt machine
oil through a bolt opening or keyhole, and work the
knob to distribute the oil. Hinges also should be thoroughly
cleaned and oiled.
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Walls and Furniture - To remove
soot and smoke from walls, furniture and floors, mix
together:
Wear rubber gloves when cleaning. After washing the
article, rinse with clear warm water and dry thoroughly.
Walls may be washed down while wet. Use a mild soap
or detergent. Wash a small area at one time, working
from the floor up. Then rinse the wall with clear water
immediately. Ceilings should be washed last. Do not repaint
until the walls and ceilings are completely dry.
Wallpaper also can be repaired. Use a commercial paste
to repaste loose edges or sections. Contact your wallpaper
dealer or installer for information on wallpaper cleaners.
Washable wallpaper can be washed like an ordinary wall,
but care must be taken not to soak the paper. Work from
bottom to top to prevent streaking.
Do not dry your furniture in the sun. The wood will
warp and twist out of shape. Clear off the mud and dirt
by scrubbing with a stiff brush and a cleaning solution.
You can also rub the wood surface with a 4/0 steel wool
pad dipped in liquid polishing wax, wipe with a soft
cloth and then buff. Remove the drawers and let them
dry thoroughly so there will be no sticking when you
replace them. Wet wood can decay and mold, so allow it
to dry thoroughly. Open doors and windows for good ventilation.
Turn on your furnace or air conditioner, if necessary.
If mold forms, wipe the wood with a cloth soaked in a
mixture of borax dissolved in hot water. To remove white
spots or film, rub the wood surface with a cloth soaked
in a solution of a half cup of household ammonia and
a half cup of water. Wipe dry and polish with wax, or
rub the surface with a cloth soaked in a solution of
a half cup turpentine and a half cup of linseed oil.
Be careful because turpentine is combustible.
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Money Replacement - Handle burned
money as little as possible. Attempt to encase each
bill or portion of a bill in plastic wrap for preservation.
If money is only half-burned or less (if half or more
of the bill is intact), you can take the remainder
to your local Federal Reserve Bank for replacement.
Ask your personal bank for the nearest one. Or you
can mail the burned or torn money via FIRST CLASS REGISTERED
MAIL to:
U.S. Treasury Department
Main Treasury Building, Room 1123
Washington, D.C. 20220
Mutilated or melted coins can be taken to the Federal
Reserve Bank, or mailed via FIRST CLASS REGISTERED MAIL
to:
Superintendent, U.S. Assay Office
32 Old Slip
New York, NY 10005
If your U.S. Savings Bonds have been mutilated or destroyed,
write to:
U.S. Treasury Department
Bureau of Public Debt
Division of Loans and Currency
537 South Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60605
Attn: Bond Consultant
Include name(s) on bonds, approximate date or time period
when purchased, denominations and approximate number
of each.
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